Coffee growers in Rwanda produce crops of rich, acidic beans which are of a very high quality. This is due to Rwanda having all the right elements for yielding excellent coffee crops, such as high elevation, rich soil and plentiful rainfall, and it is known for its great traditional arabica Bourbon trees. Volcanic soil and lots of sun and equatorial mist results in coffees which are very sweet – some with citrus tones, and others with evident chocolate and berry flavours. Rwanda Blue Bourbon, for example, is a fully washed coffee with a unique and interesting flavour that combines a full body and complex cocoa/spice notes with a medium acidity.
Rwandan coffee was, for quite a long time, rarely seen elsewhere in the world. There just wasn’t all that much coffee being grown in Rwanda that was actually exported, apart from to Belgium, which had obvious connections with the country of Rwanda having previously colonised it. It seems that a group of German missionaries first introduced coffee to Rwanda in the early 20th century, and the government quickly became involved in encouraging and regulating production of high volumes of (usually low quality) coffee – it was the country’s best method of generating income for rural families. Quality became a factor only when world coffee prices collapsed – then, Rwanda began to show itself as capable of producing unique and high grade coffee that is world class and highly sought after.
Quality control has been improved by the setting up of cooperative washing stations. Because much of Rwandan coffee is produced by small farms, quality of batches by region was often difficult to control, and even the appearance and flavours of coffee beans from one area could have significant levels of variation. By setting up coffee processing wet mills in each region, all the farmers from that area can now bring their crops their for processing, greatly improving quality control and consistency. Coffee coops have led to Rwanda being responsible for some truly excellent coffees.
One such coffee is the Gkongoro Nyarusiza offered by Sweet Maria’s. It comes from a cooperative washing station near Butare, and is part of the highly reputable Bufcafe coop too. Some of Rwanda’s best coffee farming areas are to be found in this southwestern region of the country, where it’s possible to get a lot of the much older Bourbon coffees. Gkongoro Nyarusiza beans are dried immediately after wet processing, using the African mehod of circulating air around them on raised beds for faster drying, helping to remove any defects in the beans.
The result is a classic Rwanda coffee. Well-balanced, its aromatic floral and fruity notes perfectly complement the dark, bittersweet roast flavours, and there’s a delicious spiciness with hints of cinnamon, allspice, clove and those sorts of ‘mulled’ tastes. This is a thick-feeling, creamy coffee, and yet the body is not actually all that heavy – it’s smooth and buttery. And in terms of flavours, there are lots! Mostly fruity, with plenty of bright citrus tastes and scents to mingle with the sugary sweetness of the spices.
Complex and full of flavours and aromas to discover, the Gkongoro Nyarusiza is a great example of a memorable Rwandan coffee.
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